Drain, reserving the liquid. Heat in a large skillet over medium-high heat:
2 tablespoons olive oil
Add, and cook until lightly browned, the drained porcini along with:
8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced
2 shallots, minced
Add the mushroom soaking liquid and boil it down until it is almost gone. Then add:
1/4 cup dry white wine
Boil it down until it is almost gone and set aside. Meanwhile, if using the saffron, combine and let stand for 10 minutes:
3 generous pinches of saffron threads (optional)
1 cup hot chicken stock
Melt in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat:
3 tablespoons butter
Stir in:
1 medium onion, minced
Cook over low heat until soft and clear. Meanwhile, simmer over medium heat:
9 cups (plus stock from above if not using saffron) chicken stock
Increase the heat under the onions to medium and stir in:
1 pound medium-grain Italian rice or American medium-grain rice
Cook, stirring often, until the rice is chalky in appearance, about 5 minutes. Add:
1/2 cup dry white wine
Stir until absorbed. Add the saffron mixture, if using, and simmer, uncovered, stirring often, until absorbed. Add the chicken stock, 1 cup at a time, and simmer and stir continuously until absorbed. (If desired, when half of the stock has been used and the rice is still quite firm, the risotto can be removed from the heat and refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days. To finish the risotto, reheat and continue.) Add the remaining stock, 1 cup at a time, until the rice is tender but still has some ΓÇ£bite.ΓÇ¥ It should be creamy and not stiff. Fold the mushrooms in for the last 10 minutes of cooking. Then fold in:
1 to 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
Season with:
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Let rest for a few minutes, then serve in warmed soup dishes. If desired, serve with: